Aquarium decoration takes time to properly arrange in the tank because with it, you can create hiding places for the fish as well as natural borders. This makes the aquarium more like a natural environment. Having hiding places is helpful so that the fish are able to have a good place to rest or to simply separate itself from the tropical fish tank community.

Creating natural borders with a unique aquarium decoration can help to control the aggression of some fish in a tropical aquarium. When it is time to introduce new fish into the aquarium, you should rearrange one or more of the decorations in the tank so that old territories are broken up. This will make the older aquarium inhabitants less territorial and give the newly introduced fish a chance to stake claim to their own territories within the tank.

For tropical fish that are primarily cave dwellers, they especially need to have some elements of aquarium decoration that will create places for them to get away from other fish. Tank decorations that create crevices, caves and holes are particularly important for these kinds of fish. Also, fish that are accustomed to being in heavily populated waters also enjoy having aquatic plants to use for hiding and shielding themselves.

Plants are one type of aquarium decoration for your tropical fish tank that play a bigger role in the tropical aquarium than simply adding beauty. Aquarium plants are able to bind carbon and they oxygenate the water, helping to keep the water in better condition for the fish. Plants that are in the aquarium habitat also make use of organic waste, essentially as fertilizer, and this helps to get rid of these potentially harmful components from the aquarium water.

There are many involved in fish keeping who use sensitive aquatic plants as part of their aquarium decoration and which actually act like aquatic “canaries in the mines.” If there is a sudden problem with the quality of the water in the tropical fish tank, the plant will die. This will warn the aquarist that there is a problem so that it can be handled before any harm comes to the fish.

Most of the time aquarium decoration items are made of natural materials such as wood, rock or coral. Such natural items, properly arranged, help to make the tropical fish tank look as natural as possible. A tropical aquarium can actually be very much like a small slice of the real habitat for the species of tropical fish you have selected. Some aquarium enthusiasts even go so far as to research the actual habitats of their fish and then try to replicate the look and feel in their tropical fish tank, by adding plants and rocks that come from specific fish habitats.

In addition to the type of aquarium decoration that brings a sense of nature into the tropical fish tank, there is also a huge array of aquarium decorations that would not be found in natural fish habitat settings. For instance, you can add fantasy sea monsters, shipwrecks, buried treasure chests, Egyptian pyramids, statues and temple ruins to bring some interest and variety for the aquarium viewers.

By Mike LaVallee

Mike LaVallee is the webmaster of Tropical Aquarium Care a website about Tropical Fish and Salt Water Aquariums Here you will find articles, advice and resources on many tropical aquarium topics.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

So Happy, c.1958 Andy Warhol

When I came across this lesser known artwork by Andy Warhol, I just had to share on this blog. Isn’t it super cute? I love the happy cat sounds around his head, .. ha ha.. It’s funny that I’d never seen it before – it’s one of Warhol’s earlier pictures apparently.

If you click on the cute cat cartoon, you can find all the details to buy one for yourself or your friends this XMAS.

I want one… but I’m not sure if I’m on your list ;-)

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Fortunately I know a little bit more about fish then the topping they taste best with. Here are a few basic tips all future pond fish owners need to know.

Before purchasing fish you must first have your pond suitable for life. Meaning there should be no (zip, zero, nada) Ammonia, Chlorine, Chloramines or Nitrite in your pond water. A test kit will be needed to determine the level of those parameters. A de-chlorinator can be used to rid the pond of Chlorine, Chloramines and Nitrites. And a water change can be conducted to do away with Ammonia.

A filter is crucial to maintain Ammonia levels. A Biological filter is the best choice. Be sure the filter can support a pump that is able to move the total gallons of your pond AT LEAST once per hour. So if you have a pump (assuming your pump is big enough for your pond) that has a GPH of 950 you would want a filter with the capacity of at least 950 (although a 1000 would be better.)

Once you have your water levels up to par, and proper filtration unit has been installed it’s time to purchase the new additions to your family- which is exactly what they will become. After selecting the right fish there are a few things you need to know when introducing them into your pond.

A bagged fish generally only lasts for 45 minutes, assuming the correct water to Oxygen ratio has been applied. Be sure your drive home is less than 30 minutes away. If this is not the case tell a sale associate so special measures can be taken. An additional supply of Oxygen can be given to you.

Once you are home, let the bagged fish float in the pond for 15 minutes before releasing it. This will regulate the water temperature and help to prevent it from going into shock. If however, you feel that your fish is stressed or the ride home took longer than 30 minutes, gradually fill the bag with some pond water to speed the regulating process.

Once the water from the bag is about the same temperature of your pond water you can place your new fish into the pond. Do not pour the water from the bag along with your fish into the pond. Use a net to drain the water from the bag outside your pond and then release your fish into its new home.

Now that your new friends are swimming pretty what has to be done to maintain them? Here are a few tips:

1. Test your pond water for Ammonia, Nitrite, pH, Oxygen, Carbonate Hardness, and General Hardness once a week for 2-3 months for new ponds. Once the pond is pretty much established, you can test as needed.

2. Do not over feed your fish. They eat Algae, Aquatic plants (especially lilies) and small bugs found in your pond. Only feed them fish or Koi food twice a week. This, along with regular filter cleaning, will help prevent high Ammonia spikes.

3. Keep in mind the changing seasons. As fall and winter come around, special accommodations will have to be made: A de-icer for climates that tend to drop below freezing and Wheat Germ food (no matter the climate,) for the fish slowing metabolism.

Then it is time to enjoy! Fish, whether they are specific breed Koi or simple comets, add to the beauty and placidity of your pond or water feature. They become dearly loved pets and extended members of your family!

By Faith Ruiz

For more information visit us at http://www.coolponds.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

This is an 11 step guide to setting up a freshwater aquarium in your home.

Equipment you will need:

Aquarium
Aquarium gravel
Aquarium filter
Replacement filter media
Heater
Other decorations (such as plants)
Chemical test kits
Fish food
Aquarium vacuum
Fish net
Glass Scrubber
5-gallon bucket
Pasta strainer

STEP 1: Realize the responsibility involved.
A tropical fish tank is just like having a dog or a cat when it comes to the amount of effort on your part. In order to have a successful fish tank you will have to work at it. Once a week, or at most once every two weeks, you will need to perform some kind of maintenance on the tank. Most of the time you will be performing water changes. You will also have to feed your tropical fish at least once a day. If you are up to the challenge, please proceed!

STEP 2: Decide on an aquarium size.
It’s a good idea to have in mind what kind of tropical fish you want to keep before you purchase an aquarium. Some tropical fish only grow to be an inch or two, whereas other types of tropical fish can grow 12 or 13 inches in length! Knowing what kind of tropical fish you want will help you decide the size of the tank they will need. If this is your first time with an aquarium, I would recommend going with a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium for now.

STEP 3: Decide on the aquarium’s location.
Place your aquarium in an area where the light and temperature of the tank won’t be affected by external sources such as windows and heater vents. You will want to place your aquarium on a stand that will be able to hold its total weight. A good rule of thumb for determining the total weight of a full aquarium is 10 pounds per gallon of water. For example, a 55-gallon tank will weigh approximately 550 pounds when filled with water!

STEP 4: Buy your aquarium and equipment.
Now is the time to decide on the type of filtration you will want to use. You will also need to purchase a heater capable of heating the tank size you have. Buy the gravel, plants, a power strip and other decorations. A good rule of thumb for the amount of gravel that you will need is 1 to 1.5 pounds of gravel per gallon of water.

STEP 5: Set up your aquarium and stand.
Wash out your tank with water only! Do not use soap or detergents. Soap residue left behind will be harmful for your tropical fish. If you are going to use an under gravel filter (not recommended) now would be the time to set it up as well.

STEP 6: Wash Gravel, plants and decorations.
Be sure to wash the gravel thoroughly before adding it to your tank. An easy way to do this is to put some of the rocks in a pasta strainer and wash them out in your bathtub. Then place the clean gravel in a clean 5-gallon bucket for transport to the aquarium. After adding the gravel you can place your plants and decorations.

STEP 7: Add water to the aquarium.
To avoid messing up your gravel and plants, you can place a plate or saucer in the middle of your aquarium and direct the water flow onto the plate. Use room temperature water when filling. To remove the chlorine and chloramine, use something like Tetra AquaSafe for Aquariums. Don’t completely fill up the aquarium until you are sure of the layout of your decorations. Otherwise, when you place your arm in to move stuff around water is going to spill over. Doh!

STEP 8: Set up equipment.
Install your heater but don’t plug it in until the thermostat in the heater has adjusted to the water temperature. This usually takes about 15 minutes or so. Hook up your filter and any other equipment you have, then top off the aquarium water to just under the hood lip. Place your hood and light on the aquarium and then check your power cords to be sure that they are free of water. I would also recommend using a drip loop on all of the power cords to be extra cautious. Plug all of the equipment into a power strip and then “turn on” the aquarium.

STEP 9. Wait, wait, wait and then wait some more.
I know, you want to add some tropical fish. But, in order to do this right you must wait until your aquarium has cycled before adding any fish. There are ways of speeding up this process. Check out the nitrogen cycle page to learn more. If you must use fish to cycle, try to get a hardier species like the zebra danio or cherry barb.

STEP 10. Add tropical fish.
Only add one or two fish at a time. Adding a couple tropical fish at a time gives your filtration system the time needed to take on the increased biological load that the new fish introduce. When you bring the fish home let the bag float in the tank for about 15 minutes so that the fish can become acclimated to the temperature and pH of the aquarium water. After 5 minutes of floating the bag you should add some of the aquarium water to the bag so that the fish can become acclimated to the pH level in the aquarium. This will help reduce the amount of stress imposed on the tropical fish. Stressed tropical fish often leads to dead tropical fish! Don’t feed your tropical fish on the first day. They probably wouldn’t eat any food on the first day anyway. Let them get acquainted with their new home.

STEP 11. Get ready for regular maintenance.
Be prepared to spend some time once every week or two to clean your tank. Performing regular water changes will reduce the nitrate levels and keep your tropical fish happy and healthy.

Author Bio
Mike is an editor at FishLore.com. Designed for beginners, http://www.FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more! FishLore.com – Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Do I Need A Quarantine Tank?

Ah, yes, the often dismissed but very necessary part of the tropical fish hobby, the infamous quarantine tank. Do you really need one to be successful in this hobby?

For freshwater fish you may be able to get by without having one. Freshwater fish are generally more suited to captivity because they are usually tank raised and don’t seem to break out in disease as readily as their saltwater counterparts. However, if newly acquired fish do come down with something, you will surely wish that you had one ready to go. One newly bought fish that is introduced to your main tank can easily wipe out the entire tank population. Better safe than sorry, right?

For saltwater aquarium keepers, I would say that you definitely need a quarantine tank. Marine specimens are mostly wild caught and not used to being kept in captivity. Their journey to a dealers tank is usually much longer and much more stressful for them. Stressed out fish will usually come down with some kind of disease if they don’t simply die from the whole ordeal. Saltwater fish keepers will usually have other things in the main display tank such as invertebrates and live rock, that they don’t want to expose to the harsh medicines necessary to treat one or two fish. Some medicines can wipe out all of the invertebrates in a tank, so be sure to research any medicine before using it in your tank.

Quarantine Tank Setup

You don’t need to go all out here. A simple 10 – 20 gallon aquarium will suffice for most people. If you have larger fish then obviously you want to get a bigger quarantine tank. All you really need is a bare bones setup with the following equipment:

Some type of filtration (a hang on the back of the tank power filter will work, just use filter floss without the carbon since carbon will remove medication from the water, being counter productive)
Heater
A powerhead and/or an airstone for increased surface agitation
Test Kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
Fish Net – don’t use the same net for your main tank

Fill the quarantine tank with water from the main tank and then turn everything on in the quarantine tank.

Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Quarantine

For newly acquired fish you will want to acclimate them to the water in the quarantine tank and monitor them very closely for a period of two to three weeks. Monitor the water parameters with your test kits and check for signs of parasites or bacterial infections.

If the newly acquired fish does come down with something you will need to use the appropriate medication and you will need to keep them in quarantine for a further two weeks to make sure that you have indeed treated them effectively. If after a few weeks no problems develop, you can then acclimate them to the main tank water and then introduce them.

If a fish comes down with something while in your main tank, just net them and plop them into the quarantine tank. There should be no need to acclimate them because you used water from your main tank. If you didn’t use water from the main tank you will need to acclimate them to the quarantine tank water. Diagnose the problem/disease and treat appropriately. After the disease clears up you will still want to keep the fish in quarantine for a week or so monitoring the water parameters with your test kits the whole time.

More On Saltwater Quarantine

Always have some extra saltwater ready in case you need to perform an emergency water change. Remember, you want to monitor those water parameters frequently (daily or at least once every two days). Many saltwater hobbyists always have saltwater ready just in case. You never want to mix up saltwater and add it right away. Freshly mixed saltwater can be fairly toxic to fish, in turn causing you more problems.

Conclusion

Freshwater hobbyists may get away with not using a quarantine tank, but saltwater hobbyists would be crazy not using one. Save yourself some money, headaches and especially the fish by having a quarantine tank. The fish in your main tank will thank you for it.

Author Bio
Mike is an editor at FishLore.com. Designed for beginners, http://www.FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more! FishLore.com – Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Birds are great additions to your backyard. Putting up bird houses is an excellent way to attract them. However, not all birds opt to nest in bird houses. Birds differ in their habitat preferences and only cavity-dwellers are probably interested in the bird shelters in your backyard. As it is, these cavity-dwellers also have their own specifications about the kind of house they like. These are minor measurements or feature issues but they are important for the birds. However, there are general guidelines in building these houses.

First, it is important to identify the species of birds that visit your backyard. It is also necessary to distinguish which are the cavity-dwellers from the tree and burrow dwellers. Common cavity-dwellers are wrens, chickadees, bluebirds, and flickers. Choose one you like best and focus your bird house design on it. Even if the idea of building multiple bird houses appeal to you, refrain from doing so because birds are territorial animals.

Second, determine the required dimensions of your chosen bird. Forget asking the birds for these because you’ll get no answers. Dimensions of bird houses include entrance-hole, height, depth, and floor size. Smaller birds like wren and chickadees usually prefer 4×4 floor size and a reasonable 8″ depth. Consult a bird book or the internet for information regarding the measurements of your bird house.

Third, it is better to use untreated wood and lumber for bird houses. Aside from mimicking the birds’ natural habitat, natural wood also minimizes risks of poisoning and overheating. Treated and processed wood like plywood contains preservatives like formaldehyde, which poses serious health hazards to your feathered friends. Lumber that is classified as pressure-treated often contain toxic chemicals which can poison the nesting birds. Paint is also a no-no. Chipping paint can be mistaken by the bird for food and eat it. Also, metals and plastics are not suitable for building avian shelters since they are both prone to overheating. You would want to provide the birds shelter, not an outdoor oven.

Fourth, in drafting or designing a plan for your bird houses, it is important to consider the birds’ safety against the elements and predators. Slanted roofs are preferable so rain, dirt, and moisture would not collect on top and rot the wood. It is also preferable that the roofs extend over the sides and front. Perches are not really necessary since cavity-dwellers do not perch. Consider drainage and ventilation needs. Drill small holes on the floor but make sure that these are smaller than the bird’s feet. These holes are also best placed on corners to help in draining water out in case of rain. Baby birds drown easily and a bit of collected rainwater in their shelter is enough to send them to their deaths. Aside from the relatively larger entrance holes, place ventilation holes along the house’s walls or back. These let heat escape to keep the structure comfortably cool. Placing the bird house atop a pole is a good way to discourage predators like cats and raccoons.

Fifth, maintenance and cleanliness are also factors in bird house building. Unkempt bird houses are causes of diseases, according to experts. To help you in maintaining cleanliness in the bird house, add a backdoor. This way, you can easily remove unused nest and disinfect the vacated house. Droppings and other dirt also contribute to the contamination and cleaning these out limits risks of infecting other birds.

With these tips, you are on your way to designing and building your own bird houses. Help the birds by treating these houses as if you live there. Considering the birds’ safety in your bird houses ensure you of longer years with your feathered friends.

For more valuable information on Bird Houses, please visit http://www.birdhousesbylaura.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Saltwater aquarium plants add color and interest to your marine tanks and form part of any well thought out marine tank. But that’s not all they do. Macroalgae and marine plants will also make the ecosystem in your tank healthier. Macroalgae are particularly beneficial as they provide a natural form of filtration in the saltwater tank.

Saltwater aquarium plants take in nutrients from the water in order to carry out their biological functions and growth. This action reduces the accumulation of toxic nitrates and phosphates and other impurities in the water. When you use plants in your marine tank the idea is to reproduce your fish and other organism’s natural habitat. A tank that contains saltwater aquarium plants is likely to be a healthy one.

Here are some examples of saltwater aquarium plants that you can choose for your marine tank:

Halimeda or cactus algae are hardy saltwater aquarium plants and won’t be fed on vigorously by most marine fish. It is also non-invasive so it won’t damage nearby corals or invertebrates. It does need good light to grow in however as well as enough calcium for growth. Halimeda are sensitive to high nitrate and phosphate levels and don’t like to be pruned.

Penicillus or “shaving brush” are saltwater aquarium plants that do a great job at absorbing excess nutrients like nitrates and phosphates from the water. They are usually not fed on by most fish and invertebrates except sea urchins. Plant the pencillus in the substrate and make sure the area is well-lit. If you add an iron supplement and trace elements regularly your pencillus should thrive. Pencillus has a hard calcium carbonate skeleton like halimeda an coralline algae and will do well across a range of conditions.

What about macroalgae? Macroalgae are saltwater aquarium plants that come in a variety of different shapes and sizes. They are to be found in a range of colors – red, green, brown and blue. These saltwater aquarium plants are able to photosynthesize. This means they use a pigment called chlorophyll to make their own food for growth and other functions.

In general these saltwater aquarium plants get most of the nutrients they need from the water in the marine tank. These include nitrates and phosphates. This makes them good allies in keeping your tank clean. You will need moderate to strong light for the growth of macroalgae. The way to avoid macroalgae growing out of control is to control the environment in which it lives. This means the water chemistry and amount of available light.

So are there ‘bad’ saltwater aquarium plants? Certain kinds of algae can become problematic in a marine tank.

Bubble algae is one of the most common pest saltwater aquarium plants. Bubble algae forms green bubbles on any hard surface, for example live rock. It can occur in masses of bubbles or single or in small groups of big bubbles. The bubbles might be smooth or rough. Bubble algae look nice, BUT they aren’t!

These saltwater aquarium plants grow fast and can take over your tank. Once you discover it the best thing to do is remove it and keep it under control. It can damage other plant species. You can usually remove it by hand. When you do, try not to break the bubbles as this might cause it to spread.

You can try to introduce certain types of fish like the Sohal Tang or Red Sea/Indian Ocean Sailfin Tang (Acanthurus sohal) to eat bubble algae. The best means of control, however, seems to be the “Emerald Crab”. These crabs won’t damage your corals but will eat the bubble algae. It is a good idea to learn about other such interactions between saltwater aquarium plants and herbivores as they might save you time and trouble in the future.

The emerald crabs are a great idea for the reef aquarium where they won’t fight with other inhabitants. There are even coral farmers who use emerald crabs to control algae around their hard corals! So you can protect your saltwater aquarium plants by stocking some of these little helpers.

So what’s your next step? Now that you know a little bit about the good and the bad kinds of saltwater aquarium plants, it’s your job to make sure you learn more. Your local aquarist will be able to tell you more about which saltwater aquarium plants are most suitable for your tank, level of expertise and the other species you want to stock.

You can also do more research on the Word Wide Web, visit your local library or buy books on the subject. Don’t ever buy your saltwater aquarium plants on a whim because you like the way they look. Always make sure you know as much about their nutrient, environment and lighting needs as possible. That way you can avoid making mistakes that cost time and money or even threaten the health of your tank in the long term.

Do choose saltwater aquarium plants that you find attractive as this is part and parcel of keeping a marine tank but never let your desires cloud your common sense. Once you have all you plants set up you will be able to enjoy the animal plant interactions that are so much a part of the marine ecosystem. The purpose of any aquarium is to provide both the fish and you with hours of pleasure and enjoyment. A healthy tank is a happy tank so do take the time to do your research.

Saltwater aquarium plants are very beautiful to look at and interesting to grow so make sure that you take the time to enjoy the plants in your tank. Find out if it is possible to propagate any of these plants from, how to increase or decrease their growth and what nutrients they need to stay healthy. Never share plants between aquariums unless you know they are 100% disease free and always put the health of your tank at the top of your list of priorities! Have fun and enjoy your saltwater aquarium plants!

Finally, All The Information You Will Ever Need To Begin A Wonderful Love Affair With Fly Fishing! Active hyperlink must remain with article.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

The canister filter has been in use for decades. Freshwater aquarists were the first to make use of them and they still do.

Then along came the marine aquarium and the canister filter was employed to support those to. Canister filters have been around for so long that they are now very dependable and failures are rare.

Aquarium filtration techniques have progressed considerably in the last decade or so. Aquarists strive to make their reef aquariums dependent on natural filtration as far as possible. The use of ‘live’ rock is the major example. This rock can support the reef aquarium wonderfully, provided it is of sufficient quality and in sufficient quantity, and its capabilities are not abused by the aquarist. Live rock is probably the number one filtration method in use nowadays, in reef aquariums anyway. Another example of filtration is the DSB (deep sand bed) where natural methods provide support.

So what of the canister filter? With all these modern techniques perhaps the need for a canister filter is gone. Well, no it isn’t.

A canister filter can be used to house activated carbon, or filter pads or wool, to assist in keeping the seawater pollutant clear and dirt free. Some aquarists have put chunks (around ½” to 1? square) of live rock in the canister and report that the life within the canister is quite surprising – tube worms, tiny shrimps etc.

However, is the canister filter finished as far as a prime biological support function is concerned? No, it isn’t, is the answer (in my view). It is not the number one recommended marine biological filtration method nowadays, and rightly so. There are occasions though where the use of a canister filter is, what shall we say – convenient.

Live rock is very expensive, and there is little point in deciding to filter with it if sufficient quantity is not obtained. There are other decorative and marine suitable rocks that have no filtration capability, but are available at a far lower price. So the aquarist who finds the cost of live rock prohibitive is still able to consider a marine aquarium. Decorate with low cost rockwork and filter with a canister filter. There isn’t any need for a sump, another cost reduction.

I can nearly feel the hackles rising on some marine aquarists! But lets consider it further.

The low budget aquarist should, if finances allow, obtain two canister filters, though this is not absolutely necessary – canister filters are reliable as stated. One acts as a back up for the other. The compartments inside should contain coarse and fine filter material (the coarse before the fine). Following the filter material, and last in line, should come the biological media. This is easily obtainable and not too pricey. Sintered glass media is good, but there are others.

The canister filter is cleaned at least every four weeks, or as experience dictates. The coarse/fine filter material must be kept free flowing and the biological media protected from dirt. With two canisters, this can be achieved by cleaning one at two weeks, the other at four weeks, the first at six weeks etc. The biological media is not cleaned, just the coarse and fine filter materials. It goes without saying that the canister filters should have the correct capacity for the aquarium size they are to support.

Ah, I hear the question coming up! But canister filters are just nitrate factories aren’t they? Nitrate in excess is one thing the marine aquarium doesn’t need.

Up to a point that is correct. A canister filter is a nitrate factory. But the production of nitrate is not exclusive to the canister, it is produced by any biological filtration system. Another filtration system will produce the same amount of nitrate as the canister with the same amount of ammonia to start with. It is the nitrogen cycle, the natural breakdown of toxics. There is a difference however. The canister filter is having oxygenated water pumped through it, which means that the nitrogen cycle can only progress as far as the production of nitrate. Live rock, for example, will hopefully complete the full nitrogen cycle, breaking down the nitrate into gas that is released from the aquarium. Routine seawater changes are recommended for all aquariums. Where a canister filter is in use (for biological purposes) the seawater change must be completed as it is one of the methods for reducing nitrate. The aquarist using a canister can consider completing the nitrogen cycle by other means. A denitrator will remove nitrate efficiently, so that is an option. Sulphur denitrators are the best option (in my opinion).

Now things have become more complicated again. If denitrators are to be considered then, coupled with the cost of non-live decorative rock, and the canister filter(s), plus the bio media, the cost is rising. The option for a canister filter seems only sensible when a smallish aquarium is obtained (for example, seawater changes are more manageable and less costly). Larger aquariums seem better with live rock even though the overall cost is high.

This is not a recommendation for canister filters over other filtration methods. It is my opinion that live rock, coupled with a DSB in a sump, is a very good filtration option. However, for a smallish aquarium where water changes are not a problem and the bio-load is not particularly heavy, the canister filter remains a viable biological support possibility. The aquarist should, of course, cost the options very carefully, and use live rock where possible.

Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham between them have been keeping saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. Check out their Aquarists Online website if you are interested in learning more about the hobby.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Do you have a large dog and want to buy him a dog bed? If so there are some basic things you will need to know about buying a dog bed for a large dog. There are all kinds of designer dog beds on the market but that doesn’t necessarily make them the best choice. So follow the tips below to help you choose the best bed of all the dog beds for your pet.

Remember you are looking for a comfortable dog bed that is big enough to accommodate your canine yet comfortable enough for you dog to want to sleep their. All dogs need a place of their own and that is important. So, focus on the size of the dog bed and how comfortable it is first. If you are shopping online and can’t feel the dog bed then read reviews about it and what other customers have said. It is very important to buy a comfortable dog bed because you want your dog to be cozy.

The next thing you want to consider is the actual design of the dog bed. You don’t want to choose a bed that has fabric that really clashes with your home. So, focus on the design of the fabric as well. If you are having a dog bed custom made many times you can choose between several different fabrics in order to choose the one that will look best in your home.

Something else you will want to consider is the age and health of your dog. There are memory foam dog beds available that are a little pricy but they really provide a comfortable place for your dog to sleep, especially if he is older or sick. If you are on a budget and your dog is young and healthy then just go for a dog bed that is big enough for your pet. Imagine someone giving you a child’s size bed to sleep in, it wouldn’t be too comfortable. So, focus on buying a dog bed that is bigger than your pet so he can stretch out and roll around in comfort.

You will also want to buy a dog bed that has a removable cover. Most big dogs enjoy going outside and rolling around in the grass, dirt, or whatever they can find. This means their bed will probably get dirty on a regular basis and you will want to be able to wash it.

These are just some of the basic things you should consider when buying your large dog a dog bed. Keep them in mind and both you and your pet will be happy.

TIP from FinePetCare: Check out the ‘Pampered Pooch Dog Bed’ at Organic Style, which is both the right quality and great for the environment too!

Caitlina Fuller is a freelance writer. Do you have a large dog and want to buy him a dog bed? If so there are some basic things you will need to know about buying a dog bed for a large dog. There are all kinds of designer dog beds on the market but that doesn’t necessarily make them the best choice. So follow the tips below to help you choose the best bed of all the dog beds for your pet.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.