The lack of truly ideal ferret foods is one reason there is growing interest in more natural diets for ferrets.

Basic Feeding Rules

Ferrets have unique feeding requirements, which are now finally being addressed by commercial pet food manufacturers, though with varying success. Ferrets are obligate carnivores, and food passes through the digestive system of a ferret very quickly. They have a sweet tooth but do not give in — avoid sweet treats (including raisins and other fruits).

Ferret diets should list meat, poultry or fishmeal, or animal by-products as the first ingredient. Ferrets love fruits and veggies, but their systems don’t. They do not digest fibre well at all; a banana in comes out a banana. For this reason, a ferret diet must be high in animal protein, high in fat, and low in fibre.

Feeding Young Ferrets

Whether you are feeding raw or commercial food you should always feed at least two types of food in your young ferret’s daily diet to prevent them from imprinting on one food. Ferrets imprint on foods when they’re young, so varying the diet will make things easier if you need to change your ferret’s food later on.

There are vitamin supplements for ferrets and hairball remedies, which ferrets generally love, and they provide some benefits.

Raw Diet Pros

Good diets tend to be expensive, but are worth it. I researched raw food diets further and found a diet combining raw meaty bones and mince which keeps our ferrets in top condition. Feeding whole raw meaty bones help to prevent tartar forming on the teeth and provides calcium in the diet. Even if not feeding a raw food diet they can be fed alongside dry complete a couple of times a week to keep the teeth clean.

You will see an overall improvement in your ferret’s energy and coat condition. One bonus of a natural diet is that the stool volume decreases as more of the food is absorbed and the smell is greatly decreased.

There are many websites containing information on raw feeding. When feeding groups of ferrets watch to ensure no fighting occurs over bones.

Raw Diet Cons

The biggest drawback to feeding any fresh, cooked meat would be the ferret’s normal habit of stashing food for later. It is pretty unhygienic and dangerous to have a pile of stashed meat in the corner of the cage. Make sure you collect any leftovers after every feed. When first fed raw bones it can cause your ferret’s stools to turn a white/grey colour, the ferrets digestive system will develop stomach acids to break down bone and should soon return to normal.

(Note not all veterinarians promote a raw food diet) In the wild a ferret’s natural diet is a mixture of small mammals, some birds, fish, amphibians and invertebrates. When feeding groups of ferrets watch to ensure no fighting occurs over bones.

Getting the balance right

Perhaps the best thing to do is to pick up a bag or two of the highest quality ferret food on the market. Make sure you check the ingredients on the pack and see that the first ingredients are meat. Make up a meal of some dry food, some raw bones and meat and even a vitamin supplement. Gradually you can increase the amount of raw food in the diet. Make sure you keep up the vitamin supplements to ensure your ferret is not missing out.

Canned ferret food can be given as a treat or supplement, but only occasionally.

The diet you feed your ferret is vital to their health and overall well-being and could even help your ferret live a long and happy life.

2007 Copyright Catherine Smith
http://www.ferret-training.info

If You Love Your Ferret But Are Frustrated By Its Naughty Behaviour And The Numerous Annoyances Associated With Ferret Care, Then check out http://www.ferret-training.info to Learn How To Turn Your Ferret Into The Most Well Behaved Ferret In The World, While Feeling Great About It.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Many get baby iguanas not realizing how large they get. They aren’t one of these animals that just grow as large as their tank. When they get bigger, they will need a very large cage, or their own room.

When you select an iguana, try to get one that looks alert and healthy. Make sure there are no sores or abrasions on their body and also look for bright, clear eyes. You should also be sure that the place you get your iguana cleans the cages regularly. If the iguanas are living in dirty conditions, they could very well be sick.

The first thing you will need for your iguana is a cage. If you got a baby, it is best to start with a thirty to fifty gallon aquarium. As your pet grows, it will need a larger cage. You will probably end up having to build a custom cage. The cage needs to be at least one and a half times longer than the length of the lizard, two thirds times wider than the length of the lizard and the same height as the lizard’s length. Iguanas love to climb, so try to get a tall cage.

You will need to keep some kind of substrate at the bottom of the cage. Artificial turf, orchid bark, carpeting, alfalfa pellets, or newspaper all work well. Do not use wood chips or cedar chips. Bark and wood chips can attract insects while cedar chips can be toxic.

In the cage you will need to have branches set up for your iguana to climb on. Iguanas live in trees in the wild, so branches are a necessity. The branches should be large enough so that the iguana doesn’t have trouble laying on them. Hot rocks are not recommended because they can cause burns.

Iguanas need to be kept warm in order to be healthy. Keep a thermometer in their cage so you can monitor the temperature. The cage should be kept around 85 degrees in the day and in the low 70s at night. You will also need a spot close to the heat source where your iguana can lay in the heat. This basking spot needs to be between 95 and 100 degrees. There should be an area in the cage that is shady so your iguana can go there if they want to get out of the sun.

Iguanas need to be fed a diet that is low in phosphorous, high in calcium and contains Vitamin D3. They should be fed lots of greens, such as collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, and turnip greens. Greens should be the large majority of their diet. Fruits and vegetables like squash, yams, zucchini, raspberries, bananas, and blackberries can also be added.

Iguanas don’t actually drink very much. They get most of their water out of the air. You should mist your iguana regularly or put a humidifier in their tank. Humidity in their cage needs to be between 95 and 100 percent.

When you bring your iguana home, let it settle in for about a week. Don’t try to handle it during this time. After that, start to hold it for brief periods daily. Your iguana will soon become much calmer. Stroking their neck and sides also seems to help a lot. Never pick up your iguana by the tail.

To keep your pet happy and healthy, you will need to keep their tank clean, provide food and water and spend as much time with them as you can. You should also find a vet in your area that treats iguanas. Bring your iguana to the vet regularly for checkups.

By Michael Russell

Michael Russell: Your Independent guide to Pet Care

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

One common denominator of children and snakes is that they rarely do well together. At least not if you leave the snake in the care of the child. Snakes (and most other reptiles) are entirely unlike any other animal. Their care requirements are exacting, and there’s very little margin of error when dealing with them. This isn’t to say that children can’t have snakes as pets. In fact I highly encourage it, but there are some realities you should consider.

1) You as the parent or guardian will likely become the primary caretaker of the snake. Which isn’t at all bad, but let’s face it. Kids are impulsive and the snake they just have to have or “I’ll die!!!” probably will be yesterdays news before today is done. Not literally, but you get the idea. Just be aware that when most kids promise to always take care of it… well consider that just like when they promise to eat their vegetables, or do their homework. Their intentions are great but then the reality sets in.

2) Snakes are expensive. The initial purchase for something like a Ball Python will be relatively cheap (around $40-$100) but then you have everything else.

a) Tank – These can easily run over $150.00 but if you’re willing to spend some time learning you can build your own from a plastic Tub for about $8.00

b) Essentials – These are the things you must have for the snake to prosper:

- Heating Pads: Under the tank heater will cost about $20-$35.00 depending on size and where you get it. There is also FlexWatt heat tape which is a little less expensive, but more labor intensive.

- Hides: Just a place for the snake to “hide” from everything. You can buy them at the pet store for a few dollars each or take an old butter tub, cut a hole in the side the snake can fit through and use that. Not a huge expense but the little things add up.

- Thermometer/Hygrometer combo: You want a digital one of these with probes. Those will run you around $12 to $15 for an Accu-rite from Wal-Mart. The cheap stick on the side of the tank types do NOT work. Remember I said before their husbandry requirements are exact? This is an example. To low heat can lead to respiratory infection, poor eating, and stress. To low humidty can lead to poor and incomplete sheds. So you will need to invest in a good thermometer/hygrometer setup.

- Water bowl: Needs to be large enough the snake won’t tip it over. If you buy at the pet store it’ll cost you more than it is worth. Around $15.00 (give or take)

- Substrate: A bag of cypress mulch will cost about $10 to $20. A better option is to use old newspapers for the substrate. I never pay for it because I get old newspapers from restaurants. Avoid glossy and colored prints as these can be toxic to the snake.

- Thermostat: Here we come back to the reality of how exacting conditions must be for snakes. The temperatures need to be maintained at very precise levels. That is where a thermostat comes in. To be clear these aren’t the $20.00 wall mount units you get from Wal-Mart. These are specially made for reptiles and they allow you to control your under the tank heaters. Expect to pay upwards of $100.00 for one of these.

- Electricity: Obviously keeping a heating pad running 24/7 which you will have to do will increase your electric bill to some extent.

- Food: They need to eat. Expect to spend about $8 to $25 per month on food per snake. A lot will depend on how large the snake is as to what it should be eating. Don’t forget to calculate travel into the food expense.

So now that snake that cost $40.00 is costing signficantly more. Before you even get out the door you’re looking at another $200.00 in supplies alone. Not to mention the ongoing cost of upkeep on a daily basis. We didn’t even consider what would happen if trip to the vet became necessary. Vets that specialize in reptiles have one thing in common with doctors who specialize in heart issues. They both charge significantly more than “regular” vets because of their specialization.

3) Kids are rough. You can’t leave a child and a snake alone. Some people will tell you it is to protect the kid, but in 99.999999% of all cases the reason is to protect the snake from the kid.

4) Kids are quick. Snakes don’t like quick. They feel threatened by it. They’ll try to get away and barring that lash out at things they feel threatened by. Having experienced my share of snake bites over the years I can tell you that getting bit by a snake is something most adults will never forget. Imagine a kid getting bit because the snake felt like it had to defend itself.

All of this is not to discourage you from getting a snake for your kid. In fact I highly encourage you doing just that as they make wonderful pets. You as the parent/guardian just need to be aware that snakes are unlike any common pet most people have and they take dedication and responsibility that MOST children simply do not have.

By Brook Durant

You can learn more about snakes at my blog, http://www.pet-snakes.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

How does one create a Reef Aquarium

There are five basic features of this type of aquarium. The tank itself, filtration unit, lighting system, temperature control and the water flow mechanism. The widely popular term of “reef ready aquariums” creates formidable but achievable challenges to the fish lover. Nothing can be more imaginative and creative than bringing the wonders of the Great Barrier Reef to your living room! Let us therefore begin our re-creation adventure.

Reef Aquarium Tank:

The reef tank is unique in this case and quite different from conventional home hobby aquariums. The major difference lies in the water system and in these types of aquariums the water is constantly flowing as it does in the nature it is trying to emulate. A closed circuit is established in an ingenious manner to keep the water flowing and pure at a constant temperature and salinity. Briefly, the assembly is easily visualized. Reputed companies supply reef aquarium tanks that do the job perfectly well and it is recommended to buy complete units owing to the complexity of the assembly.

Filtration Unit

A unique filter system is implemented in reef aquarium in as much as “live” rock is used for cleaning of the flowing water. In aquaculture rocks use is made of protein skimmers. The system operates on the biological filter principle and here again closely resembles the natural occurrence in the Coral Sea.

Lighting system

Lighting assembly for reef aquarium is rather complex since it is based on the photosynthesis principle wherein the coral synthesizes chemicals that are necessary for its food production and survival. New systems based on LED lights are now available that combine the best needs of the live rocks and other supplies required in these aquariums. This is a vast topic and the experts at your reef aquarium shop can best be consulted for the most suitable system for you.

Temperature Control

This is another important aspect where a lot of research and development has been done. The main purpose here is to maintain a overall temperature between 78 and 83 degree F or 26 to 28 degree C. Depending on the ambient temperatures encountered at different locations one may have to install chillers or heaters as the case may be. In temperate zones conventional fans or air conditioning may suffice.

Water flow mechanism

As mentioned earlier this is one of the most important features of maintaining a reef aquarium in your home. Coral require assistance in removing waste and cleaning up the aquarium water and therefore one has to install a flow mechanism that provides good clean healthy water to the coral’s growth. A rough estimate states that the flow of water must be around ten times the tank’s capacity. Different types of corals require different flow rates and one must consult the reef aquarium expert as to what is best for the system in use. A siphoning and return channel system is used to keep the water flowing inside the fish tank and it is imperative to understand the basic theory of coral and other invertebrate’s growth and sustenance in order to successfully breed coral reef organisms.

By Thomas Bladecki

Article Source: Desert Coral Aquatics

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Every iguana cage needs a basking area in order to be an ideal habitat for a healthy, relaxed iguana. Your iguana needs a place to comfortably bask in light and heat, and soak up the heat. Having access to a warm basking spot is crucial to your iguana’s ability to digest food, and is an important part of keeping your pet’s bones, liver, and kidneys healthy and strong. In nature, your iguana would simply head for a rock or branch in the sunshine and spend some time there. To make sure your pet gets enough sunshine on a daily basis, you could have an outdoor iguana cage that includes a sunny area, or you could arrange to let your pet visit a safe, supervised outdoor spot in the sun for at least half an hour a day. However, if an outdoor cage or outdoor visiting schedule isn’t practical, there’s another option. With a bit of planning and a few simple supplies, you can create a special basking area within the confines of an indoor iguana cage. Read on to learn what kind of light bulb you’ll need, where to place it, and what kind of ìfurnitureî your iguana will need to feel happy, and stay healthy, in its basking area.

Bulb Selection
For the basking area in your iguana cage, you won’t need any special lightbulbs. A simple, household lightbulb will do the job nicely so long as the placement is done correctly. No less than a 60 watt bulb can provide the temperature you’re looking for, and you may need as much as 100 watts. Any bulb within this range can be an ideal bulb to provide warm and light for an iguana cage basking area; the key is finding the bulb placement that creates the ideal temperature; you’re aiming for an area that’s heated to between ninety two and ninety six degrees Fahrenheit.

Bulb Placement
To ensure that your iguana gets enough heat in the basking area while staying safe, you’ll want place your UVB light bulb between eight and twelve inches away from the spot in the iguana cage where your pet will sit. The higher the wattage of the bulb, the farther you’ll want to hang it from the basking spot. Any closer, and you risk making your iguana uncomfortable with the intense heat. Any farther, and the warmth won’t be strong enough to aid your iguana’s digestion. To check that you’ve got correct bulb placement, leave a thermometer in the basking spot in your iguana cage, resting on the shelf or branch where your iguana will sit. Use the thermometer as a guide as you adjust the bulb to be closer or farther away as necessary until you achieve your desired result.

Basking Shelf
To make your iguana feel at home in the basking area, you’ll need to provide a shelf or branch for your iguana to rest on while enjoying the heat. This basking shelf should be at least twice as wide as your pet. Hanging a basking shelf or a basking branch in your iguana cage is one of the kindest things that you can do for your pet, but it isn’t always easy to do it right.

Basking Safety
When you set up the basking area in your iguana cage, make sure that you’re taking these necessary steps to protect your pet. When you hang your bulb, ensure that there’s no way your pet can manage to come into direct contact with the bulb; if your iguana touches the bulb by accident, or out of curiosity, a painful burn can result. To make sure that your basking area doesn’t overheat your pet, use a thermometer once a day for the first two weeks after you set up or move the basking area, and check that the spot where your iguana sits to bask in the cage is within the desired temperature range. In addition to monitoring the temperature, take notice if your iguana shows any signs of suffering in the heat. An iguana’s natural response to overheating is to pant, and to leave its mouth hanging open in a wide gape for no other obvious reason. If you see these behaviors in your iguana cage, try adjusting your basking area.

By David Nunez

Iguana Cage Ideas is a website started by an iguana owner as a way to spread important information about buying, building, and configuring a new iguana’s home. Learn more at www.iguanacageideas.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Nothing makes apartment living fun like a playful pet.

Fido and Felix bring a number of new elements to an apartment other than the additional smell. On any given day pets add companionship, humor, personality, and tons of fun to even the most monotonous dwellings. Although dogs and cats lead the pack of domesticated pals there are a number of non-traditional, unique, and exotically extravagant creatures available. So, if you are seeking a cute, small, or just out of the ordinary companion check out the little buggers that round out my list of Top Six Unique Apartment Pets.

6) Pot-Bellied Pigs- While slightly destructive at times, Pot-Bellied Pigs can be as easy, if not easier to train than dogs. They’re playful, curious, caring, surprisingly odorless, and they don’t bark. Natural “rooters” and highly intelligent, these pets can get quite stubborn in their desperate search to feed their addiction to food, learning to open cabinets, drawers, bins, and find their way into making a real mess of the kitchen. Keeping food locked up is only a fraction of commitment to caring for these lovable little oinkers. Pot-Bellied Pigs may require much care, financial, and time commitment, but make an extremely fun pet and incredible family member.

5) Hedgehog- Although not a very social animal, a tamed hedgehog can make a nice furry friend. With a life-span of 4-6 years, Hedgehogs are relatively easy to care for and are easy to feed with high quality cat food. When they feel threatened these animals will roll into a ball, poking out the prickly spines on their back. These spines are not a big danger, but getting a hedgehog used to human handling is one of the biggest steps in making them comfortable and you avoiding getting poked. A seemingly quiet animal, they don’t require a lot of attention and are great at entertaining themselves.

4) Chinchillas- Pets don’t get much softer or cuddlier than one of these very soft, furrycreatures. Like most exotic mammals on this list, if handled from a young age Chinchillas bond very closely with their human owners. For a smaller animal they have quite the extensive life span, lasting about 15 years. An active and playful animal by nature, having a spacious cage and many toys available for the Chinchilla will add to their happiness and natural comfort level. Surprisingly, these little guys bathe in dust to keep their coat silky and smooth, so having a dust bath is a necessity. Does anyone else see the irony in the fact that an animal can bathe itself in dust to maintain a clean, shiny coat of fur?

3) Ferrets- A very mischievous animal, Ferrets can be highly entertaining. One of the more common animals on this list, Ferrets are known to sleep long hours (up to 18 hrs/day) and be very active during dawn and dusk. Most will adapt their sleeping and active times to fit that of their owner’s schedule. While they do have a reputation for having a musky smell, Ferrets are typically fixed and descented before being sold. Ferret owners should always try to be aware of the whereabouts of their pet as a ferret’s curiosity can lead it anywhere in the home. Living roughly 6-8 years, Ferrets make a really awesome and extremely fun apartment pet.

2) Prairie Dogs- One of the most social, playful, and active animals on this list, Prairie Dogs can make incredibly fun pets for an apartment. If trained very young to be around humans, these furry creatures become affectionate and very caring to their owners. With this need for affection, they require a good amount of attention. Feeding on rabbit pellets, hay, and the occasional treat, it’s fairly easy to keep a Prairie Dogs’ belly full. Make sure to have many chewable toys available as they do like to chew on things and you don’t want them to chew on you.

1) Sugar Gliders- This is the ultimate apartment pet. Sugar Glider’s are extremely social and bond naturally with their human owners. This in mind, these animals do require quite a bit of daily attention and interaction as without it they can at times become depressed or even die. A marsupial, the Sugar Glider is quite comfortable hanging out in a shirt pocket all day, cuddling close to its owner. They are a very endearing and non-aggressive pet that typically lives 12-14 years, so will make a wonderful long time pet that’ll connect well with its owner. Being small, fun, and easy to care for makes the Sugar Glider the perfect apartment pet!

That rounds out the list of Top Six Unique Apartment Pets. There are an increasing number of viable pet options for apartment dwellers out there, so make sure and look around and weigh those options to find the perfect pet for you and your place.

By Jeff Swett

Visit ApartmentHomeLiving.com for more information on apartments and living for fun!

Jeff’s just a regular guy with a funny goatee that really enjoys people and life. On top of that he is a bit of an expert on apartments, living in them, and getting the most out of the apartment living lifestyle. As a Managing Partner of Apartment Home Living, Jeff wants to help you find the right apartment by getting to know you. Not only where you want to live & what you want to pay, but what you like. This way, we can help you find an apartment that fits your personality, not just your budget.

At AHL Apartmentites have a platform to share their own stories, get great info & tips on apartment living, read Jeff’s entertaining blogs/stories, find Answers to a wide array of apartment related questions, and have a ton of fun sharing their love of apartment living with others. Don’t forget to go and set up your own MyPlace page to really get the full Apartmentite experience!

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

When choosing a family pet, many people automatically think of a cat or a dog. Those who do not enjoy having a pet running around the house all day, might think of rabbits, guinea pigs or hamsters. But if you want a different kind of furry friend, I suggest looking into adding a chinchilla to your family.

Chinchillas are members of the rodent family. They originate from the mountains in South America. They are especially known for their soft fur, which they keep in excellent shape by rolling around in sand.

One thing to keep in mind when considering a chinchilla is that they can live for a long time, up to 20 years. You could compare it to the lifespan of a cat. The chinchilla is not a short-term pet, so you have to be sure you can accommodate them properly and are willing to make a commitment.

A fully grown chinchilla is about 12 inches long and weighs between 18 and 35 ounces – approximately the size of a smaller breed of rabbit. They have round ears and a bushy tail.

A chinchilla’s fur is so dense that fleas and other parasites are not an issue. They are very clean by nature, so there is practically no smell.

They are not difficult to keep, but you do need to provide them with sufficient space. Cages should be kept indoors and cleaned once a week. Hygiene is very important and avoids harmful bacteria which could harm your chinchilla.

Experts recommend that the minimum cage space for one chinchilla should be approximately 100cm high x 70cm wide x 50cm deep. The chinchilla does like room to move about in, so I advise building or purchasing a larger cage than that. I recommend creating different levels within the cage and perhaps a climbing branch, as they enjoy jumping and climbing.

Please keep your chinchilla away from the heat and allow them to have access to cool air and a shaded space on hot days. Chinchillas can suffer from heat strokes when the temperature goes too high.

I also recommend letting your chinchilla run free for at least an hour a day, within a safe space such as a closed room with not too many hidey-holes. Anything you would not like chewed should be removed, as chinchillas need to keep their teeth trimmed. A variety of items for them to chew can be purchased in pet shops.

Do not be afraid when a chinchilla runs straight at a wall. This can be a scary sight at first, but they will twist in the air at the last moment, and bounce off the wall with their back legs. They are agile and great fun to watch.

Chinchillas are friendly pets. It can take a bit of time for them to get to know you, and for them to be comfortable with being handled, but if you are patient and caring you will be rewarded. They are very intelligent and like to have fun, so once you have earned their friendship they might even try to play tricks on you in order to get a treat.

If at all possible, add a couple of chinchillas to your family, to avoid loneliness. Chinchillas love company and interaction, and will happily play together. If you only have room for one, they will need more attention and playing time to keep them stimulated.

Adding a chinchilla to your family is a rewarding experience, both for adults and children. So the next time you’re looking for a family pet, why not consider one of these friendly little creatures?

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

I love reptiles and I bet you do too (or you probably would not be reading this article!). You may have noticed that reptiles are becoming more and more popular as family pets. Reptiles such as turtles, iguanas, snakes, geckos, horned toads, and chameleons can make great pets because they are fascinating, quiet, don’t require daily feeding/walking, and can be kept in a cage with relatively very little fuss. However, there is a cautionary note folks need to be aware of when taking on a reptile for a pet. Reptiles sometimes carry a bacteria called Salmonella that can cause serious illness in people.

Although many people think of salmonellosis as an illness caused by contaminated food, it can also be caught by handling a pet reptile or contact with its environment. The trick is that you can’t tell by looking at a lizard, snake, or a turtle if it is carrying Salmonella. You see, Salmonella occurs naturally in many reptiles and the bacteria doesn’t usually make the animals sick.

If you have ever had about it, you most likely won’t ever forget it. Salmonellosis is a serious infection of the gastrointestinal tract. Diarrhea is the most common symptom of Salmonella infection, but other symptoms such as fever, headache, nausea, and vomiting can also occur. It can sometimes be extremely serious and even fatal for young children, the elderly, and persons with weak immune systems. Salmonellosis is not to be taken lightly. For that reason, families with children aged 5 years or younger or persons with weak immune systems should think twice about having pet reptiles.

Bacteria, including Salmonella, are easily passed from pet reptiles to people. Research by the Center for Disease Control shows that a person who handles reptiles can easily pass germs to others because bacteria are able to cling to skin, clothing and other surfaces. To reduce the chances of getting sick with salmonellosis by handling reptiles, here are some tips to follow as a reptile pet owner:

• Wash hands with soap and water immediately after handling a reptile; Launder any clothing the reptile might have touched
• Do not allow reptiles to roam the house freely
• Keep reptiles out of the kitchen
• Use soap or a disinfectant to thoroughly clean any surfaces that have been in contact with reptiles.

Another thing to keep in mind is that it is illegal in the United States to sell or distribute turtles with shells that measure less than 4 inches in length. This size was chosen because some small children treat smaller turtles as toys and put them in their mouths. Yuk! Despite this ban, these small turtles can still be found in some pet stores.

Of course, children will still catch wild turtles and lizards and bring them home to keep as pets, which is what kids are supposed to do. Just keep in mind, whether store-bought or caught in a friend’s backyard, a reptile can carry Salmonella and might not be the best choice of a pet for your family, especially if there are young children or persons with compromised immune systems in the household.

By Tom Vaughan

Tom Vaughan is an avid admirer of reptiles, especially snakes. He caught his first rattlesnake (pygmy rattler) at age 10 and hasn’t stopped catching reptiles since. A favorite website is http://www.reptilefile.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

While your methods of toad pet care will depend largely upon the individual needs of the species you choose as a companion, there a few basic “rules” that should be heeded. The first rule as that most toads don’t take kindly to being held or touched. While there is no truth to the old wives’ tale that says touching a toad will cause warts, it is true that toads will secrete a toxic, defensive substance from their skin when they feel threatened. To that end, you should always wash your hands if you must touch your pet toad, but you should also keep in mind that the reason your toad feels threatened in the first place is because you’re many, many times larger than it is! Toads are not wired to respond to affection like a cat or dog, therefore, they are best enjoyed happily dwelling in an enclosure that resembles their natural habitat as closely as possible-an appropriately appointed living space.

Your pet toad care success depends largely upon selecting a secure, adaptable home for your toad. Aquariums are always best, whether your toad is a land-dweller or a water lover as they allow for maximum viewing potential while keeping your toad safe from harm. Outfit your aquarium with a snug-fitting mesh top that will provide adequate ventilation, and ensure that your toad has enough room to hop and swim about. A good rule of thumb is that a single medium-sized toad should be given at least ten gallons worth of aquarium. Nearly all toads enjoy water to some extent-some pretty much live in it, climbing out only occasionally to rest, feed, or breathe while others spend most of their time grubbing around on land, entering the water only to drink or have a little swim. Once you’ve learned your toad’s species-specific preferences, you can devote your time to building a realistic habitat. For instance, if your toad is a native to wet forests, give him lots of leaf cover, moss, and a few lush, live plants to enjoy. If your toad is a prairie dweller, he’ll need flat rocks, a stand of tall grass, and a small pool to lounge in.

As you consider your pet toad care checklist, keep in mind that you’ll have to account for your toad’s dietary needs, even if you’re squeamish about things like insects and worms. Most toads sold in the pet store will enjoy a steady diet of crickets, provided the crickets are dusted occasionally with a vitamin-rich powder (also available at pet stores). Toads may also enjoy earthworms or wax worms. Some toads have considerably more exotic dietary needs, and may need to be fed mice or goldfish to maintain their health and happiness, so always take care to consult a reputable book or salesperson before bringing your new toad home.

While owning a toad may not be for everyone, learning the ins and outs of pet toad care can make for a rewarding, unique, and perhaps even magical pet ownership experience for those who are up to the task. As you learn more and more about the varying needs, habitats, and mythologies behind these fascinating creatures, you’ll soon be ready for a toad of your very own. Educate yourself well and head to the pet store. You may just return home with a new best friend.

By Barry Mcgee

About The Author: Barry S. Mcgee is a pet enthusiast. His site at: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline provides advice and information on all aspects of pet care for all types of pets including dogs, cats, ferrets and others and makes it easier for pet owners to choose the best solution for their companion’s care. For answers to all your pet care questions, please visit: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

First, remove from your mind the idea that these creatures are very low maintenance. It’s not that they require a huge amount of your time, but they do require weekly bathing, new food every few days, new water every day, heat, and a regularly cleaned environment.

Habitat:

A hermit crab will be very comfortable in a 10-gallon or bigger aquarium with a few inches of sand or stones at the bottom. Two shallow dishes of water are required – one for salt water and one for dechlorinated fresh water. You can buy additives at pet stores in preparing each water dish. Sponges sitting in the dishes work very well to help add humidity to the habitat.

You’ll also need a thermometer and humidity gauge. The tank needs to be between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. You can use either an under-tank heater, or low wattage lighting to provide heat. The humidity must also be between 70 and 80 percent to keep your hermit crabs healthy.
It helps to have a lid on your tank to keep in moisture, and to keep in your crabs. They can be quite the climbers!

Food:

Commercial hermit crab food can be purchased at any pet stores that sell the animal. Supplement their daily food regiment with assorted fresh fruits and vegetables, whole grain breads, or small pieces of fish and meat. You can also offer some pieces of cuttlebone or boiled egg shells for calcium.

You will need to clean food dishes daily and remove any uneaten bits of food from the tank. Also rinse and refill water dishes daily.

Shells:

Be sure to provide plenty of empty shells in a variety of sizes. Make sure to also have a variety of shells in different shapes and styles, and with various opening sizes. You never know what type of shell a hermit crab may like, and if a good selection is not provided, crabs can fight over the best ones!

Bathing:

Hermit crabs need to be bathed once per week to stay healthy. (This is also a good time to clean the rest of the habitat) Fill a bowl about one inch deep with lukewarm tap water. Very slowly place the hermit crab feet first into the water. Often, the hermit crab will seek shelter inside its shell during this process. As the crab emerges, the water will go into his shell and rinse it clear of any debris. After a few minutes of walking around, take the hermit crab out and place it into his newly clean tank. (This may also be a good time for a treat of fresh carrots or any other type of treat)

Cleaning the habitat:

About once per month, do a thorough cleaning with hot water. Avoid detergents and chemicals as these can be harmful to your pets. Sand can be washed and boiled or baked to sterilize it for re-use, if desired.

Hermit Crabs are very friendly and fun pets. While they do require a good deal of care to keep them healthy, they are very rewarding pets and can be quite the stress reliever. As with any pet, research should be done before you make the decision to adopt it.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Tonia Jordan is a freelance Journalist and a writer on http://www.Writing.com which is a site for Writers.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.