Many get baby iguanas not realizing how large they get. They aren’t one of these animals that just grow as large as their tank. When they get bigger, they will need a very large cage, or their own room.

When you select an iguana, try to get one that looks alert and healthy. Make sure there are no sores or abrasions on their body and also look for bright, clear eyes. You should also be sure that the place you get your iguana cleans the cages regularly. If the iguanas are living in dirty conditions, they could very well be sick.

The first thing you will need for your iguana is a cage. If you got a baby, it is best to start with a thirty to fifty gallon aquarium. As your pet grows, it will need a larger cage. You will probably end up having to build a custom cage. The cage needs to be at least one and a half times longer than the length of the lizard, two thirds times wider than the length of the lizard and the same height as the lizard’s length. Iguanas love to climb, so try to get a tall cage.

You will need to keep some kind of substrate at the bottom of the cage. Artificial turf, orchid bark, carpeting, alfalfa pellets, or newspaper all work well. Do not use wood chips or cedar chips. Bark and wood chips can attract insects while cedar chips can be toxic.

In the cage you will need to have branches set up for your iguana to climb on. Iguanas live in trees in the wild, so branches are a necessity. The branches should be large enough so that the iguana doesn’t have trouble laying on them. Hot rocks are not recommended because they can cause burns.

Iguanas need to be kept warm in order to be healthy. Keep a thermometer in their cage so you can monitor the temperature. The cage should be kept around 85 degrees in the day and in the low 70s at night. You will also need a spot close to the heat source where your iguana can lay in the heat. This basking spot needs to be between 95 and 100 degrees. There should be an area in the cage that is shady so your iguana can go there if they want to get out of the sun.

Iguanas need to be fed a diet that is low in phosphorous, high in calcium and contains Vitamin D3. They should be fed lots of greens, such as collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, and turnip greens. Greens should be the large majority of their diet. Fruits and vegetables like squash, yams, zucchini, raspberries, bananas, and blackberries can also be added.

Iguanas don’t actually drink very much. They get most of their water out of the air. You should mist your iguana regularly or put a humidifier in their tank. Humidity in their cage needs to be between 95 and 100 percent.

When you bring your iguana home, let it settle in for about a week. Don’t try to handle it during this time. After that, start to hold it for brief periods daily. Your iguana will soon become much calmer. Stroking their neck and sides also seems to help a lot. Never pick up your iguana by the tail.

To keep your pet happy and healthy, you will need to keep their tank clean, provide food and water and spend as much time with them as you can. You should also find a vet in your area that treats iguanas. Bring your iguana to the vet regularly for checkups.

By Michael Russell

Michael Russell: Your Independent guide to Pet Care

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

It’s very common to hear people speaking about experiences they have had trying to photograph
their pets. Many times you will hear of mini disasters where an animal will fall from some sort of make-
shift prop, or where a prop has fallen on the pet. Most often it is frustration you hear from the pet owner. They dress up the dog, run for the camera, & then can not encourage the dog to hold still at all.
These are all things that can be alleviated by a few simple tips that we are providing right here.

Mixed Breed Dog (photo can be ordered) Bill Whelan

My FIRST tip & I feel it is the most important: Be FULLY prepared. Yes, this sounds like a bit of over-kill but I promise that it is not. You should gather and bring along any props that you might need. These could be blankets, benches, toys, brushes–yes brushes. With some pictures you may only have
one chance so you will not have time to go and get these things. The better prepared you are the better
your chances of getting that great shot!

#2) Move in CLOSE. The closer you are to your Dog the better detail you will have. If the lighting
is right you will see the “catch lights” in the eyes. This really brings out the expression on the dog’s
face. You also need to make sure the ears are up & that the nose is wet. These little details will
really enhance your photograph.

#3) Speaking of LIGHT…Good lighting is a Critical element of any pet photograph! Low lighting requires longer exposures which usually spells disaster. Good side lighting will really enhance the texture of the dog’s coat. Please remember if you are shooting your pictures outside that the optimal times are early morning or late afternoon. The sun shines more at an angle & provides a much better quality of light for photography.

Dog Floating on Raft in Swimming Pool Chris Minerva (photo can be ordered)

#4) Place yourself on the Dog’s Level. Always try to be shooting from the eye level of the dog. This
again helps to fully capture the expression you want.

#5) One of the true advantages of Digital Photography is that it allows you to shoot multiple shots at no cost to you. This is great when photographing dogs because you cannot control their movements, etc. Another key advantage is that with digital you can most often see your shot & know if it is a winner. Irregardless, I most often shoot 2-3 shots of key poses to make certain I get a winner!

So, in essence many of the problems we encounter when photographing dogs can be alleviated with
some simple preparations. Good planning, great preparation and being flexible enough to anticipate
problems that may arise. Try these out the next time you set out to photograph your pet. I think
you will be pleasantly surprised.

Elaine Mashburn
http://professionalpetphotography.blogspot.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Pet products may be hazardous to your pets

There are few events more distressing than the injury or death of a pet. Psychologists have likened it to the death of a family member. After the recent pet food contamination that killed some pets and made many others sick, worldwide attention focused on making sure pet products are SAFE. Can you honestly trust most manufactures to do that for you?

Products we normally use on our pets – shampoos, odor eliminators, etc. – may create health concerns for our pets just as they can impact our health. Toxic synthetic chemicals used in personal care products are also used in pet care formulas. When scientific studies show these ingredients cause cancer, heart disease, hormone disruption and other aging diseases in humans, the tests on animals generally have the same results.

We need to be aware that chemical ingredients cost pennies and profits are huge, so incentives to inform consumers may be missing. Our pets’ lives are more important than that. I, for one, am willing to spend more to protect my pets and extend the quality of their lives.

Living on a ranch presents a host of unique problems every day. Our horses, dogs and cats are exposed to more things that require greater care than you can imagine. So, I have had the opportunity to identify a variety of solutions for these four-legged loved ones. That includes protecting them from various problems in the environment, small critters and the irresponsible actions of two-legged creatures as well.

Here is what I have learned:

Shampooing is a major effort that can be very messy. Putting your dog in the bathtub or shower isn’t exactly fun for them or you. I recommend using a safe, ToxicFree® pet shampoo. Remember, you are applying it all over their body and most of the time it is not all rinsed out of their hair. So you’ll want one without harmful ingredients or drying agents that will irritate their skin. Find a natural, organic shampoo without synthetic chemicals that can affect your pet’s overall health. It may cost a few pennies more per application, but the safety of our pets is worth it.

Can you imagine having your pet sprayed by a skunk? It’s the worst smell and it lingers for days! Our dogs have greeted us with this unpleasant odor and it nearly drives us out of the house. We use an oxygen-based odor eliminator to neutralize the worst pet odors safely. I recommend you look for products with NO artificial fragrance. Synthetic fragrance is toxic for pets and humans. These petroleum-based ingredients settle and hover about 12” off the floor where pets and babies (if you have any) spend a lot of time – walking and crawling through non-biodegradable toxins!

As an informed consumer, you can make effective, healthy choices –for yourself AND your pets. I recommend you avoid the following at all cost:

•Sodium laureth sulfate: ethoxylated cleanser found in most shampoos – may contain dioxane, which is banned by the California Safe Cosmetic Act.
•DEA (diethanolamine): carcinogenic foaming agent; significant risk to children (National Toxicology Program; FDA Office of Cosmetic Fact Sheets)
•Propylene glycol: can cause brain, liver and kidney abnormalities (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry)
•Parabens (methyl, propyl, butyl, ethyl): xeno-estrogens which may contribute to sterility and hormone imbalances (Brunel University)
•Fragrance (usually contain phthalates): highly toxic; can affect central nervous system (Environmental Health Network; FDA Office of cosmetics Fact Sheet).

I sincerely hope this information is helpful. We all love our pets. Now you can protect your little friends and feel confident you are making the very best choices for them. Extend your pet’s life…now.

Linda Chaé is a prominent researcher, formula consultant, educator and consumer advocate. She has met with many Congressional Leaders fighting for public protection from unsafe chemicals in products. For organic pet products or more information about
pet care visit www.chaeorganics.biz

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

More than half of the population allows their dogs to stay inside their houses sleeping on the couch or their owner’s bed. Others prefer their dogs stay outside in dog houses. If you would like to build a dog house for your pet the following tips should help you get started.

1. Consider your dog’s size. Dog houses should have adequate space for the animal to comfortably move around. People like to have approximately 2 feet of air above them and there is a good chance dogs also enjoy having about that much space as well. Dogs and people tend to need about 1/3 of their standing height to feel comfortable. To calculate how much space will be needed for your dog’s house you should measure your dog while he is standing straight up, sitting, and most importantly measure his full length when he is most relaxed and outstretched. Keep in mind that your dog should be able to see out of the entrance while both sitting and standing. The entrance needs to be high enough that the dog does not have to hunch down or scrape his stomach on the bottom.

The Dog Pablo Picasso

2. Water and air should be able to flow under the dog house. Therefore be sure to raise it a couple inches off the ground. It is also important to make sure the dog’s house has adequate ventilation. This will help keep pests from making the dog house their home. This can be accomplished using a few small holes around the eaves. By installing a wind block inside the dog’s house, he or she will be able to use its own heat to warm the area when it is really cold outside. For additional protection against the elements you might consider adding a partial wall separating the entry room from the inner room. A soft pillow and warm bedding will also likely be much appreciated.

3. To keep the rain out of the dog’s house make the floor slanted a little toward the doorway. The roof on the other hand should be slanted in the other direction. Dog houses should also be well insulated.

4. It is not a good idea to build your dog’s house so that it faces the South or the West because most storms come from these directions in the United States. Dog houses should typically face East. This will also help keep cold air from blowing through past the entryway.

5. Your dog will appreciate a clean house. In order to make cleaning the Dog’s house easier try putting hinges on the roof.

If your dog lives outdoors he or she will appreciate a comfortable place to sleep and to get out of the cold. These tips should help you get started building your dog’s new house.

About the Author
Robert Michael is a writer for De Pets which is an excellent place to find pets links, resources and articles. For more information go to: http://www.depets.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Freshwater aquarium fish, as opposed to their bright and flashy cousins of the saltwater variety, can be a good experience for people who have never cared for fish before. Saltwater aquarium tanks can be quite challenging to set up and properly maintain. For this reason, it is strongly recommended that those new to fish keeping, look first at starting with freshwater fish. After you have been able to master the challenges of keeping freshwater fish alive and their aquarium in good order, at that point you might want to broaden your fish keeping horizons and branch out into the saltwater aquarium realm.

Ultimately, it does not matter what kind of aquarium or tank that you choose for your freshwater aquarium fish, as far as care and maintenance is concerned. However, if you cannot keep to a regular, weekly schedule of cleaning and maintaining the tank, then perhaps you should not even bother setting up an aquarium.

In addition, you will also need to monitor your tropical fish tank on a daily basis. You need to be sure that the water is always properly in balance for your freshwater aquarium fish and that the correct and comfortable temperature is constantly maintained. The other daily task that you must remember to perform is to make sure that your fish receive the proper amount and type of food as needed.

After you have determined that you will be able to keep up with the regular required maintenance of freshwater aquarium fish, then you can start deciding on what kind of fish you want to include in your tropical aquarium. The tropical fish tank that you choose must be large enough so that it can properly accommodate the number and types of fish that you plan to purchase. The overcrowding of a tropical fish tank can be a deadly mistake because it can cause polluted tank water and can lead to diseased fish. Before making your final decision, make sure you ask how large the selected fish will be at maturity, as size can vary a great deal depending on the species. A newbie to fish keeping might want to start with a 10 to 20-gallon tropical fish tank and fill it with the smaller and heartier freshwater fish varieties.

In order to maintain a healthy environment for your freshwater aquarium fish, you will also need to have a quality water filtration system, a reliable heater and some nice aquarium decorations and accessories. When setting up your freshwater tropical aquarium, be sure to choose a location in the house where light and temperature can be controlled so that it remains constant. And, remember that once your tropical fish tank is set up and filled, it will be very heavy, so be sure that it is on solid footing with flooring that can handle the load.

By Mike LaVallee

Mike LaVallee is the webmaster of Tropical Aquarium Care a website for
Aquarium Enthusiasts including
Aquarium Lighting Here
you will find articles, advice and resources on many tropical aquarium topics.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

When cleaning your aquarium, you should just remove about half of the total amount of water and replace it with fresh de chlorinated tap water. While you are doing this, you should use your siphon to suck up some of the gunk that collects in the gravel and decorations. If you have an under gravel filter, it is very important to clean the gravel when you do your weekly water change. This will prevent detritus and other decaying organic matter from blocking the passages between the pebbles and restricting water flow.

If you have algae growing on the surface of the tank, you should get an algae scraper of some sort and scrub the glass before removing water. Many varieties of algae scrapers are available at almost all local pet stores. You can also get algae eating catfish or scavengers to pick up some of this work for you. Having catfish in the tank does not mean that you will never need to clean again. Algae eaters and catfish will add to the biological load of your tank and increase maintenance requirements.

If you have to clean out the filters, do not change all the media everything at once. This will remove the majority of your biological filter and cause the tank to have to go through another cycling period to reestablish bacterial growth. Rinse any new filter in cool running water before introducing it to the system.

Once you have siphoned most of the water from your tank, you will need to fill it again. The easiest way to do this is to use a siphon and siphon water from a bucket into the tank. This will tend to reduce spilling and shooting up gravel. Use a bucket that has never had any household chemicals in it and fill it with water. The water should be close to the temperature of the tank water that you just took out. Use a chlorine remover to prepare the water for introduction into the tank. Place the bucket somewhere higher than the top of the fish tank, and get your siphon going. In just a couple of minutes, you should have a full tank.

Be sure to watch the siphon in case the hose gets bumped out of the tank. Keep in mind that there needs to be some space between the top of the water and the aquarium cover, because your fish rely on oxygen exchange at the surface of the water in order to be able to breathe.

Remember, cleaning your tank is easy and it will get easier after repeating a few times. Always scrub for algae, remove half of the water supply while cleaning the gravel, and top off the tank with de chlorinated water. This method works with any basic fish tank. Good luck and take care of your fish.

By Donald Mckenzie Jr

For more information visit these two websites: http://fishing-techniques.blogspot.com and http://house-pets.blogspot.com You will get more information on how to fish and caring for all types of house pets.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Sometimes your pet may have a raring appetite and may beg to be fed. Other times, they may simply glance at their dinner and choose to not eat.

What is the cause of this inconsistent appetite? Chances are, if you have a pet with problems eating, the cause may not actually be your pet, but you.

If your pet consistently refuses to eat or eats very little, it may be a sign of illness. If your pet used to eat regularly and consistently, and now you have noticed a pattern of refusal to eat, this is cause enough to take your pet to the vet. If you have noticed other symptoms, take your pet to your local veterinary clinic to assess your pet’s state of health immediately.

Although people need variety and wide selections and combinations of food, cats and dogs are not built the same way. This is often a mistaken belief that people have when it comes to feeding their pet. If they give their pet different types of food each day, they are teaching their pet that they can have an opinion, thus causing them to possibly not eat and hold out for a food choice they prefer more. Dogs and cats are not built like humans. They can get all of the proper nutrients and vitamins they need from only one particular dog food. Once you realize which food your pet likes best, just stick with it. Your pet will thank you for it!

Another reason that pets may not eat could be a family member who enjoys giving the pet ‘people’ snacks from the dinner table. If a dog gets pieces of ‘people food,’ that may very well satisfy their hunger until the next day. So, when you try to feed your pet, they are simply not hungry because they were already fed from the table. Not only can feeding from the table ruin your pet’s appetite, it is also bad for them. Again, humans and animals have different nutritional needs, and human food may actually be more harmful to pets than is often realized.

Many dogs have an inherent nature to please their owners. Oftentimes when a pet eats their food, their owners praise them and show their dog that they are happy with them. Though this is fine, it can sometimes encourage dogs to overeat. Similar to humans, overeating can cause discomfort or bloating. If a pet later refuses to eat, they are simply saying they can’t hold any more food and they are blocking it out in an attempt to be more comfortable.

Whatever the problem may be, it is always a good idea to visit your veterinary clinic and discuss your pet’s eating habits with a professional. Your vet will be able to recommend a certain dog food type, as well as defining the amount of food and how many times a day your pet should be fed. Soon, you and your pet can find something that works for the both of you. Good luck!

Visit Dog-Bed.org & LVE Productions for more great content.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Like us, goldfish see in color, but they can also see ultraviolet light. They have greater sensitivity to light than we do but, unlike us, they have no eyelids because their eyes are constantly bathed in water. That gives them a problem we don’t have; they can’t shut their eyes to avoid bright lights. Furthermore, they can’t dilate their pupils, so their eyes adjust to changes in light levels much more slowly than ours. It can take goldfish twenty minutes to adapt to lights being turned on or off, which is why they often dash for cover when you turn on a light. It’s impossible for them to look away so all they can do is try to hide behind rocks and plants.

It’s important to protect your fish from bright lights and sudden movements and to spend a little time working out the right location for their tank.

Avoid placing your tank on or near a windowsill – the worst place for bright sunlight. If you can’t avoid putting the tank near a window, make sure you shade it from the incoming light using window blinds, or the wrap-round tank ‘wallpaper’ that most fish shops sell.

Remember that bright sunlight isn’t a problem only in the summer months. It can be worse in winter because the winter sun is lower in the sky. Think how dazzling it can be when you are driving your car towards the sun, and think how much worse it could be for your goldfish in their tank if they have to suffer that all day, every day.

Add some stones or a small upturned flower pot for your fish to find refuge in.

There may be problems with bright light that you haven’t noticed. Try crouching down at each end of the tank and look through it to see what your fish see. Check for mirrors or other shiny objects that may be causing a problem for your fish but which have never been a problem for you.

Room lights can be another problem for your goldfish. Although you may think nothing of it when you switch a room light on or off, your goldfish needs up to twenty minutes to adapt to the change in light. If your tank doesn’t have a lid, it’s a good idea to get one, especially if you have a ceiling light shining directly into the tank. If your fish tank is fitted with a light, turn the room light on first and then wait fifteen minutes before turning on the tank light so your fish has time to adjust to the light.

At night, switch the tank light off fifteen minutes before you switch the room light off. If you have dimmer switches for any of the lights near your fish tank the job is easy. You could also consider putting your tank light on a timer so it comes on after you start your day, and goes off before you go to bed.

Sudden movement is something else your fish can’t close their eyes to. When you’re positioning your fish tank, it’s important to think about the activity that will happen near the tank. Avoid the hallway and kitchen if you can. Both these locations might seem like good ones, but each has drawbacks. The hallway is likely to be one place in your house that gets a lot of traffic so your fish may see a lot of giant fast moving objects hurtling towards their world.

The kitchen, though a common place to put a fish tank, can also be a busy place. Cooking involves constant moving about between refrigerator, work top, cooker, and cupboards. If your fish are nearby they get a constant stream of rapid and unexpected, and possibly frightening, movement they can’t escape from.

A quiet corner of your living room is often a much better location, and provides you with the opportunity to sit and relax watching your goldfish. But even here it’s not necessarily relaxing for your fish. Make sure the tank is not in line of sight of the TV – a rich source of sudden movement. Your bedroom is a good location, because most of the time there’s not much happening there. Your child’s bedroom, however, could be a very active place, depending on the age of your child.

Of course, in every home there will always be some bright lights and some sudden movement. However, by using tank ‘wallpaper’ to cover one or more sides of the tank, you can protect your fish from the worst of them, and create a greater sense of security for your fish. Keeping plenty of healthy plants in the tank helps screen fish from visual noise, and makes the tank more interesting for you to look at. Developing a fish eye view of the world helps you give your fish a more comfortable and healthier home, and a longer life.

By Elaine Rushmore

Elaine Rushmore is the author of ‘The Goldfish Doctor’ – a top quality, step-by-step guide to the diagnosis, treatment and cure of sick goldfish. Goldfish owners around the world have benefited from the information this book contains. Protect your family’s goldfish now – http://www.goldfishdoctor.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

The next step in controlling algae is to consistently change the water itself. By doing this, you are controlling the nutrient levels in the tank, which is crucial. Controlling nitrates, phosphates, and silicates are especially important. Another thing to look for is how you are controlling the iron in the tank. You can include different kinds of plants in your setup so they will compete for iron and other nutrients algae feeds off of in order to how a low opportunity for algae to survive.

Your first battle is likely to be with brown algae, or diatoms, because it appears first by siphoning silicon from the new aquarium tank itself, and unlike other stages of algae, it is unaffected by low lighting levels, so controlling light will not stop it from thriving. You can effectively combat it by changing water and gravel often. Diatoms thrive in conditions where phosphate is low and silicon is high, and this is generally what your scenario will be when you first start your aquarium. As time progresses and the environment changes, brown algae is usually replaced by green algae, because green algae thrives in a higher phosphate environment.

Green algae is apparently delicious and the best way to get rid of it is to bring in those algae eating catish and/or Siamese. Combined with keeping your aquarium only lit for a maximum of ten hours a day and simple manual removal of clumps of green algae, you can control what is typically the most usual and common algae growth in your aquarium.

Red Algae, or Brush, is a real problem because it is difficult to remove manually and most fish won’t eat it. Take care of this pesky nuisance by changing your water to RO/DI water and let your Siamese fish tackle it.

Blue Algae, or Cynobacteria, have photosynthesis, meaning the more light, the more it thrives. It is extremely harmful to both plants, by smothering, and fish, by poisoning. Treat your aquarium with erythromycin but be sure you know what you are doing, as you will need to check for ammonia and nitrate.

By Richard Gilliland

SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

How does one create a Reef Aquarium

There are five basic features of this type of aquarium. The tank itself, filtration unit, lighting system, temperature control and the water flow mechanism. The widely popular term of “reef ready aquariums” creates formidable but achievable challenges to the fish lover. Nothing can be more imaginative and creative than bringing the wonders of the Great Barrier Reef to your living room! Let us therefore begin our re-creation adventure.

Reef Aquarium Tank:

The reef tank is unique in this case and quite different from conventional home hobby aquariums. The major difference lies in the water system and in these types of aquariums the water is constantly flowing as it does in the nature it is trying to emulate. A closed circuit is established in an ingenious manner to keep the water flowing and pure at a constant temperature and salinity. Briefly, the assembly is easily visualized. Reputed companies supply reef aquarium tanks that do the job perfectly well and it is recommended to buy complete units owing to the complexity of the assembly.

Filtration Unit

A unique filter system is implemented in reef aquarium in as much as “live” rock is used for cleaning of the flowing water. In aquaculture rocks use is made of protein skimmers. The system operates on the biological filter principle and here again closely resembles the natural occurrence in the Coral Sea.

Lighting system

Lighting assembly for reef aquarium is rather complex since it is based on the photosynthesis principle wherein the coral synthesizes chemicals that are necessary for its food production and survival. New systems based on LED lights are now available that combine the best needs of the live rocks and other supplies required in these aquariums. This is a vast topic and the experts at your reef aquarium shop can best be consulted for the most suitable system for you.

Temperature Control

This is another important aspect where a lot of research and development has been done. The main purpose here is to maintain a overall temperature between 78 and 83 degree F or 26 to 28 degree C. Depending on the ambient temperatures encountered at different locations one may have to install chillers or heaters as the case may be. In temperate zones conventional fans or air conditioning may suffice.

Water flow mechanism

As mentioned earlier this is one of the most important features of maintaining a reef aquarium in your home. Coral require assistance in removing waste and cleaning up the aquarium water and therefore one has to install a flow mechanism that provides good clean healthy water to the coral’s growth. A rough estimate states that the flow of water must be around ten times the tank’s capacity. Different types of corals require different flow rates and one must consult the reef aquarium expert as to what is best for the system in use. A siphoning and return channel system is used to keep the water flowing inside the fish tank and it is imperative to understand the basic theory of coral and other invertebrate’s growth and sustenance in order to successfully breed coral reef organisms.

By Thomas Bladecki

Article Source: Desert Coral Aquatics

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.