Most of us are probably familiar with the quintessential image of the rabbit-a fluffy, cuddly white bunny delivered into the arms of delighted children on Easter morning, surrounded by sweets and colored eggs. Unfortunately, this picture-perfect holiday symbol that has placed many a pet rabbit into a less-than-ideal situation. Taking care of a pet rabbit is not a holiday novelty; it’s agreeing to assume full responsibility for the needs of a living creature. If it sounds like welcoming a rabbit into your home is serious business requiring lots of thought and planning, that’s because it is! But it also offers an exciting, unique pet ownership experience-for those who are willing to put in the time and effort to learn the ins and outs of pet rabbit care.

Rabbits require a certain kind of home environment in order to thrive. Contrary to the popular image, they are not suitable pets for young children, even if the intention is to teach responsibility by allowing the child to care for a pet rabbit. Rabbits frighten easily and are extremely fragile when it comes to being handled. A sudden noise or movement can actually frighten them to death, while one instance of mishandling could break bones or damage internal organs. Therefore, a home full of running, yelling children is not a happy home for a rabbit. Rabbits need to feel secure at all times, so a large part of taking care of a pet rabbit is offering it a fairly constant atmosphere of peace and quiet, and a major component of offering that secure atmosphere is providing your rabbit with proper housing.

There are two basic options when it comes to rabbit-keeping: to cage or not to cage. Traditionally, rabbits have been kept in outdoor cages (called a “hutches”) with a wire bottom and sides, a solid top, and a solid wooden nesting box. An outdoor hutch is still a viable option, provided serious effort is applied to making the hutch completely weatherproof. For those who truly wish to keep their rabbits inside, a large cage similar to a hutch can be integrated into the household, and for those who truly wish to live with their rabbits, a rabbit can be kept much as you’d keep a cat-running free in the house. Rabbits love to be near “their people,” and if given the chance, will follow you around as you do your daily chores. They are easily litter box trained and are relatively tidy overall. For safety’s sake, it’s a very good idea to confine your rabbit to a single, rabbit-proofed room, unless he or she is under close supervision. Many people keep their rabbits in an empty bedroom or in the kitchen by blocking off the door with a baby gate. Rabbit-proofing involves ridding the area of chew-ables such as books, papers, toys, or anything else you don’t want gnawed-especially electrical cords. You should also ensure that there are no small spaces for your rabbit to squeeze into.

Whether you decide to keep your rabbit in a cage, let him roam freely about your kitchen, or a combination of both, the other major consideration in taking care of a pet rabbit is ensuring that fresh water and proper food are available at all times. Water can either be made available in a heavy dish or in a cage-hanging water bottle. A rabbit’s diet should consist mainly of formulated rabbit pellets, a little fresh hay, and treats such as carrots, apples, and leafy greens (not iceberg lettuce!). Rabbits will eat just about anything, but that doesn’t mean you should feed them whatever they desire. They have delicate digestive systems that are easily thrown off balance by the sudden introduction of foreign foods, so try to keep your rabbit’s diet as simple and junk-free as possible.

Now that you’ve learned how to care for a pet rabbit, it’s time to find your new best friend. While pet stores and breeders are always an option, consider checking to see if there’s a rabbit rescue near your home, or call your local animal shelters to ask if they have any abandoned rabbits available for adoption. Whatever your decision, make sure it’s one that promises your new friend he’ll have a forever home with you, and he’ll pay you back tenfold with unending affection and companionship.

About The Author: Barry S. Mcgee is a pet enthusiast. His site at: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline provides advice and information on all aspects of pet care for all types of pets including dogs, cats, ferrets and others and makes it easier for pet owners to choose the best solution for their companion’s care. For answers to all your pet care questions, please visit: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Rabbits make wonderful indoor pets for first time pet owners. In fact, many domestic rabbits are meant to be kept indoors. Domestic rabbits are not like their wild cousins; they do not fair well in extreme temperatures. They also do not react well to predators. Domestic rabbits are very attentive and affectionate. They care about their owners and are very social. Domestic rabbits are meant to be played with and loved by the entire family.

The choice of whether you keep your rabbit in a cage or allow him to roam freely is up to you. If you do opt to keep your rabbit in a cage, you should make sure that he is allowed to get out of his cage every day so he can exercise. When purchasing a cage for your rabbit, you should take into account how big he will be when he is mature and purchase a cage that is five times that size. Your rabbit’s cage should be big enough for him to sit up on his hind legs. You should also put cardboard or a piece of untreated pine wood in the bottom of wire cages to protect his paws from the wire.

If you decide to allow your pet to roam, make sure that your home is safe. Rabbits like to chew and they don’t know the difference between an electrical cord and a stick. Most rabbit owners that do allow their pets to roam limit their wandering to specific areas.

Rabbits are herbivores, which means that they only eat fruits, vegetables and grasses in the wild. You should keep a bowl of commercial rabbit food in your pets eating area. However, you should feed your rabbit hay every day, as well. Many rabbit owners also feed their pets a few fruits and vegetables, such as a carrot or a bit of apple. Always provide something hard and crunchy for your rabbit to gnaw on. This will keep his teeth from becoming overgrown. You should also make sure your rabbit has access to water and that it is changed every day.

Many domesticated rabbits become accustomed to be handled and even enjoy being held. However, you should always use both hands when picking up your rabbit. Place one hand under his chest and the other around his rump. You should never lift your rabbit by his ears.

Rabbits keep themselves clean. However, you should brush rabbits that have long hair regularly to keep their fur from matting. You should trim your rabbit’s nails every six weeks. Also, check your bunny’s teeth when you trim his nails to be sure they are wearing evenly. If a rabbit’s teeth don’t meet evenly, they may grow too long and curl, preventing him from eating. If his teeth are growing too long, you will need to ask your vet to trim them on a regular basis.

Rabbits do not need to go to the vet for vaccinations, but will benefit from a yearly checkup, just like any other pet. You should also take your rabbit to the vet if he has hair loss, loss of appetite, a runny nose, has difficulty breathing or has any swelling or lumps on his body.

For more information about caring for pets, from bunnies to ponies, visit http://www.animal-chat.com. Animal Chat is a place for animal lovers to hang out, with a pet chat room, a pet chat forum, pet care faqs and pet care articles.

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

Rabbits have been popularly kept as pets in Western nations since the 1800s. Rabbits can adjust well to indoor life, and can even be litter box trained. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention.

Often people purchase rabbits from a breeder. Many people prefer breeders under suspicion that some pet stores sell cross bred rabbits. Such a breeder who has a litter of young rabbits available for sale can be found in the newspaper classified ads listed under “Pets” or “Livestock.” Some can be found through rabbit breeders’ club publications or through rabbit-related magazines, which often include a breeder listing. With the advent of the Internet, many breeders advertise their stock online.

Finding a local rabbit breeder is generally preferred to shipping rabbits for long distances, as it can be stressful for the animal. Many pet shops nearly always carry smaller breeds of rabbit such as the Netherland dwarf, the Holland lop, and the Mini-Rex. These breeds, although smaller than ‘normal’ rabbits, still live long and healthy lives. A point to note is that often smaller breeds of rabbits are prone to tooth problems such as malocclusion.

Rabbit rescue organizations or a local humane society are increasingly common places to find adult rabbits, who may already be spayed or neutered and docile from handling. Though most rescued rabbits are healthy, some may require special care for health conditions or behavioral problems resulting from prior abuse.

Training and Play

Pet rabbits can be trained to urinate and defecate in a litter box or on a newspaper in a specific corner of a room. The litter box may also be placed inside the rabbit’s cage or the rabbit can be trained to treat the cage itself as the litter box. Litter training becomes much easier once a rabbit is spayed or neutered.

Rabbits cannot learn voice commands like a dog, but can recognize different patterns of the voice. For instance, If a rabbit is disobeying, for example biting, simply make a high pitched noise, or an extremely bass noise and the message will be conveyed. Rabbits can be taught their names, although they recognize the pattern of the noises more then the words. Rabbits are intelligent, and enjoy games and toys.

It is possible to permit a rabbit to run loose in the home if rooms have been rabbit-proofed (i.e. dangerous chewable items such as electric cords are removed from the pet’s reach). Rabbits have a tendency to chew on items in their space, particularly wires, although they can be trained not to chew.

It is important that if a rabbit is allowed to roam in a house that it be impossible for the rabbit to chew or get into dangerous or valuable items. They do not possess the same comprehension as a dog or a cat, and often don’t understand if punished physically; rather they will become scared or confused if some kind of punishment is used, as they do not see the damage they have done. If all this is taken into consideration, rabbits make excellent house pets.

Companionship

Other rabbits

Unneutered rabbits frequently fight when paired with another rabbit of the same gender. Generally fighting is a result of sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both sexes upon other rabbits of either sex; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cagemate. Unneutered rabbits of opposite sexes will breed rapidly, so a pet owner should not leave them together, even if they do not fight.

Because of these problems, it used to be preferred to keep rabbits caged individually. However, it is becoming common to spay and neuter pet rabbits allowing male and female rabbits to live together. Fighting can result even from pairing altered rabbits. Keeping rabbits in pairs can limit behavioral problems (such as general aggression, biting or withdrawal) which may arise if rabbits are kept single.

Pairs of bonded and desexed rabbits, usually one of each gender to a pair, can often be adopted from animal shelters. These have usually already had all their major expenses taken care of (desexing) and they will rarely fight or harass each other, taking the trouble out of bonding two separate rabbits.

Guinea pigs

Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While some people have seen success with this technique, the current consensus is that rabbits should never be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs. A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig; this can lead to severe distress or even death for the guinea pig. It may be unintentional or due to being startled, since the rabbit is larger and stronger so can seriously injure a guinea pig. They also have differing nutritional requirements, so it is therefore preferable that rabbits and guinea pigs are fed separately. Guinea pigs require additional Vitamin C in their diets that rabbits don’t. Lack of Vitamin C may lead to scurvy.

Additionally, guinea pigs typically show very little interest in social activities necessary for the rabbit’s well-being, such as grooming; this limits the intended benefit of housing the guinea pig and rabbit together in the first place.

Dogs and cats

It is generally recommended that dogs should never be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Cats, on the other hand, can become close and safe potential companions if properly introduced to the rabbit and they are of at least roughly equivalent size. In fact, when the cat is introduced in a home with a resident rabbit, the rabbit sometimes will act aggressively to establish his territory and the cat, which does not have such concerns, will typically cede the point to the resident.

Hagar lagarto is a long time Pet lover with many articles and websites on the subject.You can get much more info at http://pet.freehostia.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

The typical diet for a pet rabbit consists of water, hay, pellets, fresh vegetables, and its own caecal pellets. Fruit and other treats are given only in very limited quantities, as they can cause obesity in a rabbit. Rabbits require a constant water supply as they dehydrate quickly.

Most sources recommend 80% of the diet should be Timothy hay or another grass hay. Too many vegetables in a rabbit’s diet typically leads to diarrhea and other digestive problems.

Pellets

Rabbits are generally fed a pelleted feed available from pet stores, supermarkets, and farm suppliers. Pellets were originally designed for rabbit breeders for the purpose of providing as much food energy and vitamins as inexpensively as possible. This is optimal when the rabbits are being bred for food or for experimentation.

Most sources recommend a minimum of 18% fiber, low protein (14?15%), and less than 1% calcium. Depending on the amount of vegetables available, an adult rabbit should be given between 20 ml to 40 ml per kilogram (? and ? cup of pellets per 6 pounds) body weight daily. Pre-adolescent and adolescent rabbits (7 months and younger) can be given as much pelleted diet as they can consume, although additional vegetables are preferable to additional pellets. An older rabbit (over six years) can be given more pellets if they are having difficulty maintaining a steady body weight. Timothy hay-based pellets are great for rabbits that have stopped growing and do not need to gain weight. Alfalfa-based pellets are best only for young, growing rabbits or older rabbits who are under-weight.

Hay

Hay is essential for the health of all rabbits. A steady supply of hay will help prevent gastrointestinal stasis and other digestive tract problems in rabbits. Additionally, it provides a number of necessary vitamins and minerals at a low food energy cost. Rabbits enjoy chewing on hay, and always having hay available for the rabbit may reduce its tendency to chew on other items. Timothy hay and other grass hays are considered the healthiest to provide the rabbit. As a persistently high blood calcium level can prove harmful to the rabbit, hays such as alfalfa and clover hay should be avoided. Alfalfa is also relatively high in food energy, and a constant diet of it can cause obesity in rabbits.

Treats

Treats are unhealthy in large quantities for rabbits, just as they are for humans. Most treats sold in pet stores are filled with sugar and high food energy carbohydrates. If an owner is determined to feed the rabbit treats, the best treat to provide it with is fruit.

Acceptable fruits (seeds and pits MUST be removed): Banana, Mango, Pineapple, Peach, Apple, Kiwi, Berries, Orange and other citrus fruits.

Pineapple, mango, and papaya all contain a natural enzyme which is thought to reduce hairballs.

Fruits or other treats must be given in moderation, as rabbits easily become overweight and suffer health problems. Their diet should consist of no more than half a tablespoon of fruits or treats per day.

However, fresh fruits should not be given to rabbits under the age of 4 months because their digestive systems are not always developed enough to handle the fruit. It can cause enteritis that causes death within 48 hours.

While a common myth that rabbits should be given lettuce, this is not a good idea because it contains little to no nutritional value for the rabbit and again can cause enteritis which leads to a quick death.

Caecal pellets

Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eat some of his feces. These are called cecal pellets, and are a vital part of his diet. Caecal pellets are soft, smelly, clumpy feces, and are a rabbit’s only supply of Vitamin B12. Due to the design of the rabbit’s digestive system, they cannot extract some vitamins and minerals directly from their food. At the end of their digestive system is an area called the caecum where cellulose and other plant fibers are broken down and ferment. After they have been broken down and passed, a rabbit’s digestive system can finally extract the vitamins from them.

Hagar lagarto is a long time Pet lover with many articles and websites on the subject.You can get much more info at http://pet.freehostia.com

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.

How To Teach Your Children The Proper Care For Your Pet Rabbit!

Children are naturally innately drawn to cute, cuddle-y little creatures, and they will probably want to pick up, stroke and play with your new pet rabbit. But while this may be tempting, it’s potentially quite dangerous — both to the bunny and to your child.

Rabbits are sociable animals and generally like human companionship, but unlike dogs and some cats, they do not enjoy the same type of close contact. They are ground-dwelling creatures and prefer to have all they’re legs on the ground. If your child tries to pick up your new pet, the rabbit will likely squirm, claw and perhaps even fall to the floor. Moreover, children may want to rough-house with their new pet, but rabbits can easily be harmed by such behavior, because their bodies are so fragile.

For all these reasons it is essential to teach children in advance about what to expect from their pet and how to treat their new fuzzy friend. Read the next chapter, which is all about understanding handling your new rabbit, and then sit down for a talk with your kid or kids. Explain that rabbits are not like other pets, and that they don’t like being picked up.

Also, be aware that rabbits do not respond well to stressful or very noisy environments, so households with very hyperactive or very loud children may just not be suitable to a pet bunny. And if you have a particularly energetic young child, you should certainly supervise the child’s playtime with the rabbit, so that you can affirm good behavior and correct bad habits.

There are several supplies you will want to purchase before you bring you new pet bunny home. You will need to have most if not all of the following items on hand:

Cage
Water bottle
Food dish
Food pellets
Fresh veggies
Hay
Litter box/pan
Rabbit toys

Make sure that you have enough of those essential supplies on hand before you bring your rabbit home, so that you don’t have to run out and buy supplies while you’re in the midst of getting your new pet settled into your house.

About The Author

by Andrea Austin, http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com
We hope you enjoyed this article. If you would like more information on pet rabbit care, click on this link to get your FREE Rabbit Care Guide: http://rabbits-n-bunnies.com/index.html

Copyright 2009 Fine Pet Care.com. All Rights Reserved.